Muskegon to Harbor Springs and Back, 20-31 July 2008:

Early the morning of 20 July 2008 I began final preparation of “Crusader” (a Cal 39) for a solo cruise north, and at around 0900 I slipped the dock lines and headed west toward the Muskegon entrance channel. My plan was to intercept the Chicago-Mackinaw Race fleet as they sailed north - and then to meet Mike (racing in the Mac) and Meagan at a harbor somewhere along the way. The purpose of this sail was to get to know the boat as a solo sailor and do a bit of a “shake down” of all the rigging and systems.

Part of the “mission” was also to explore the potential of a sailing/kiting experience in the waters I was sailing thru. If I had more time and other crew it would have been awesome to ride at several spots along the way including the Sables, Frankfort, Little Manitou Island, East (Grand Traverse) Bay among others. Next time, next year, I will for sure make this happen!

The winds had been light for first 24 hours of the 100th running of the Chicago-Mac race, and only the maxi's and turbo sleds had been able to make enough headway to be sailing at positions north of Muskegon. According to race tracking the bulk of the 400+ yacht fleet was virtually drifting in the middle of the lake directly west of Muskegon early the morning of my departure.

As I sailed out past the Muskegon pier heads I was met with moderate but steady NE winds shifting to SE, allowing for a comfortable northing at 5-6 kts on a close reaching course. I kept a constant lookout for Mac racers but only encountered a few boats near Little Point Sable and Big Sable before deciding to make anchor in Ludington.

After a nice cool and breezy night at anchor in Ludington I headed out early morning and was again met with decent breezes on Lake Michigan, but right on the nose. Progress was slow but comfortable and steady, and after a pleasant and relatively uneventful day of close hauled sailing I decided to anchor overnight again in Frankfort.

While attempting to anchor inside Lake Betsie I was befuddled by the fact that I lost the anchor while trying to set it in about 20 feet of water. While the boat drifted back with the wind I waited for the anchor (a 60# Bruce plow with 30 feet of 3/8” chain) to set. As I seemed to keep drifting I began pulling the anchor rode up and was astounded when the parted rode showed itself to me about 30 feet from it's attachment to the chain, which was now now sitting on the bottom of Lake Betsie. While I was extremely curious (and remain utterly confused) about how or why this happened I was also extremely tired and eager to tie up somewhere for the night, since it became clear that the spare anchor had not been stowed and that was not an option.

The next morning I departed around 0900 and as I motored away from my slip I asked the crew on *“Genuine Risk” where the Chi-Mac fleet was? They said that while they were sailing South 4 hours earlier that morning they had (sailed South) thru many of the boats (going North)...ughhh...those sailors are having a slow, wet race. They were only about half way to the finish of the 330 mile course after 40 hrs of sailing. Been there, done that, got the t-shirt!

* A 90' Dubois sloop with canting keel, first to finish in the race.

So I headed out into the big lake and was met with a fresh North breeze, but again right on the nose. I hoisted the main and unfurled the full jib and was leaping comfortably thru the 3-4 foot seas at 6-7 kts. As I approached the Manitou passage the wind steadily increased and shifted to the Northwest, with small squalls and rain, giving me reason to reef the headsail further – to a handkerchief in fact. It would have been my preference to reef the main as well, as now the winds were easily in the 25 kt range and the seas had built to fast steep 8-10 footers. The boat was handling it very well, but if the wind increased further I would have my hands full and risk possible damage to the rig, and I did not want to run off the wind as my desired destination was upwind.

Just for practice I heaved-to a few times to feed myself and to see how the boat would settle itself in a big sea and if the event that a reefing drill became an absolute necessity – no problem. I was still hesitant to attempt a reef to the main only because I knew the slugs on the top batten of the main were hanging up when the sail was supposed to come down and I was afraid of having the main stuck in a position that would make things even more unmanageable for me.

Fortunately the winds did not increase further and once I entered the Manitou Passage I was leeward of the North and South islands and the seas abated, which took considerable strain off of me and the boat and I continued to make good headway. As I passed Leland the winds lightened to a whisper and I chose to run the engine and motor for an hour or so to make some progress and charge batteries. Once I got to Cathead Bay at the tip of the Lelanau Peninsula I could see the wind freshening from the North and I again hoisted full sails.

The wind direction and my new course presented 2 options: #1 (sail the short course) round the corner into Grand Traverse Bay and make way for Northport, or #2 (sail the long course) make a run for Harbor Springs. The wind and the course for Harbor Springs was a perfect match allowing me to sail at 7-8 kts, laying the entrance to Little Traverse Bay perfectly on a close reach. It was such beautiful sailing that it seemed crazy not to go those extra miles. I had the boat so perfectly balanced that, without any auto-pilot, I was able to sail hands free for hours at a time.

As I sailed into Little Traverse Bay late Tuesday night the swells increased in size and speed and the wind was now solid 15-20 kts. I saw 9-10 kts on the instruments several times as I surfed down waves and across the wind the last 15 mile stretch - the boat was handling magnificently. Finally at around midnight I reached the harbor entrance light. I then went head-to-wind and spent the next 30 minutes trying to get the main down - not a fun experience in 20+ kts after 16 hrs of sailing single handed. I finally tied up at the city dock around 0100 and had a long and comfortable rest.

The next morning I was met by my friend, former kite student, and local resident Rip Hayes. We had a nice breakfast and he gave me a tour of his ongoing projects and his fancy motor yacht. I spent the next few days as a guest at their beautiful home overlooking the bay and the fleet of boats racing in the “Ugotta Regatta”, attending a party at the Little Harbor Club, dinner on his yacht, etc. It would be hard to have found a nicer spot, planned a nicer time, or to be with nicer people than Rip's family. These are among moments when I have felt truly blessed.

Mike and Meagan had arrived on Thursday to assume command of Crusader and attempted a sail to Beaver island on Friday but were turned back by 25+ kt headwinds, perhaps lending truth to the sailors superstition - never leave port on Friday. On the other hand, Friday and Saturday offered nice 15-25 kt breeze from the West and SW on Little Traverse Bay, so Stewart, Kiefer and I went kiting off the point, and 9m kites were the order of the day. We did mini-downwinders both days, riding thru the race boats as they sailed back and forth across the bay, boosting big airs off the swells over the transoms of million dollar sail boats and receiving big cheers from the crews hiking out on the windward rails.

Overall it had been a spectacular week of sailing, visiting friends, and kitesurfing. Harbor Springs is truly one of those “out of this world” places. I have been to a lot of nice spots and this one is at the very top of my list as a sailing center, for it's charm, and class.

Mike and Meagan sailed Crusader down to Frankfort from where I was to sail her home. I was delighted to run into an old friend from Waukegan, Billy McCafree, at the Frankfort marina. Billy has been racing “Nana” for 20+ years, with a dozen or more “money” finishes in the Mac. This year they took 1st in their section again! I was also glad to hear that my old ride “Spitfire” took a 2nd in section. Both boats offer proof that you don't need an expensive new boat to win races – just solid crew work and navigation, good boat preparation, good sails and a little luck.

The sail home for me was not as easy, as the winds were not as steady or strong. With inconcistent winds and wam dry weather I sailed Crusader from Frankfort to Pentwater and then Pentwater to Muskegon, passing close to shore at Big and Little Sable, arriving at the dock at around midnight 2 days later, ready for a comfortable bed and an epic kiting session the next day.